My Epic Carmel-by-the-Sea Getaway

And above all, watch with glittering eyes the whole world around you because the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places. Those who don’t believe in magic will never find it.”

—ROAHD DAHL, Novelist, poet, screenwriter, and fighter pilot

If there is ever a town to inspire all your senses, Carmel-by-the-Sea is it.

Lest you think you don’t need inspiration, I urge you to reconsider.

Think fairy tale cottages.

In a village.

In a forest.

On the coast.

Where the sea air teases you with waves of mist now and then as you explore the restaurants, boutiques, and art galleries with arched doorways and window boxes overflowing with fairy ferns and billowing flowers with nary a spent bloom. And this, combined with fragrant wafts of savory delights at every turn— chocolate, coffee, candy, spicy-grilled something-or-other, or hearty, baked this or that—is sensory perfection.

Stay at a boutique hotel, park the car once, and then wander the one-square-mile village for a few days, never once reaching for your car keys. Shop, walk, admire, feast, and sip until your heart’s delight and then stroll back to your room in the evening under lighted trees veiled in mist. But, take a flashlight. There are no pesky artificial street lights to compete with the stars nor light your way.

Everything in Carmel-by-the-Sea is destination-worthy. It’s where world-renown artists display their art amid fanciful boutique stores, some affordable, some perhaps not, but useful in inspiration and adoration nonetheless.

Carmel is a curated town—everything is special.

There isn’t room for anything else. Sure, there are a few touristy shops that sell trinkets and sweatshirts, but only a few and even those are hugely popular. We all need something to publicly profess our love of Carmel.

When I visit, I want to stand on the street corner and shout to the wind like Tom Hanks on the beach in Castaway, declaring to the world in bombastic triumph, “I…..have made….fire!”, only with me it’s “I…have found…Carmel!”

I first found Carmel in August of 1984 when Ron and I honeymooned—a gift from my mother and her husband. We’ve returned many times since, as well as this month to celebrate our 35th wedding anniversary.

A bit of background…

Carmel-by-the-Sea is unique. Chain restaurants aren’t allowed; there are no street addresses and no home mail delivery, either. Individual properties are identified by geographical location. The town is known for being dog-friendly with many restaurants and stores admitting guests with dogs. It’s also known for unusual laws. For example, it’s prohibited to wear high-heels more than 2″ with a base of less than 1 square inch unless the wearer obtains a permit, though the local police do not cite those in violation. The ordinance was enacted in the 1920s to defend the city from lawsuits by people tripping over irregular pavement distorted by tree roots.

That said, the city regularly hosts delegations from cities and towns around the world seeking to understand how the village retains its authenticity all these years later.

Here’s how our trip played out.

Be sure to click the pictures for larger versions, or to see the slideshow. Hovering will show the caption.

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Pangaea Grill

“I don’t really know you, but I feel like we could be best friends!”

Owner Mira Porges takes my hand in hers and tells me this while we talk about her restaurant. I rave about the service (Thanks, Martine!), the food, and the atmosphere and ask a lot of questions. She tells me all about her restaurant and how much she enjoys meeting new people. But, it’s exactly this approach, her passion and the feeling like you’re a best friend even though you’re just visiting that makes Pangaea Grill so special.

Our server is Martine (“Mar-teen”), gracious and knowledgeable. He’s as passionate about the restaurant as the owners and for good reason. He’s been at this location for decades, staying on from the previous restaurant and when the Pangaea Grill opened on New Year’s Eve, 2018.  In fact, 80 percent of the staff stayed on, most with decades of experience. Mira and her husband Matthew clearly care about their staff which makes for a wonderful experience. Pride of service and ownership ooze comfort and goodwill.

But, that’s only the beginning.

Every course is delectable.

To start, we ordered Luli Pinot Noir 2017 Santa Lucia Highlands.

I usually don’t care for Pinot Noir’s, but this is outstanding! And it’s available at Costco, Martine offers at our gushing. Wine.com also sells it ($22.99) as does BevMo! ($22.99, although not year 2017) The wine is described as having strawberry, dried flowers, and subtle earthy notes; medium-bodied, outstanding balance, ripe tannins, and a great finish.

I describe it as simply delectable!

Next, we had the Tuna Poke—a very generous portion! And one of the best we’ve tasted. So fresh, no crackers needed. We catch and eat a lot of fish and this has our approval.

For dinner, Ron dined on grilled rib-eye while I had the filet mignon. Both were cooked to noteworthy perfection. We both requested extra veggies instead of potatoes, so the picture you see above is tailored and not the usual fare. I love that the vegetables were thoughtful and equally important to the dish. So often, veggies are an afterthought. But, not here.

For dessert, Martine served complimentary (Happy Anniversary!) servings of crème brûlée—the best I’ve ever had! I couldn’t determine the special ingredient that made it the best, but there’s definitely something special going on there. I’d come here just for the dessert and I’m not typically a fan of crème brûlée.

After dinner, we spent quite a bit of time visiting with Mira and her husband Matthew. We learned that Matthew is the architect who designed the space after Mira’s vision of “dining under the stars.” And that’s exactly why we chose to dine here.

And the name, Pangaea?

Pangaea was the supercontinent comprising all of the known landmass in the world 335 million years ago. Pangaea began to split apart 175 million years ago to eventually become the seven continents of the world. Mira believes, due to communication technologies and social media, that we are becoming one planet again. She welcomes everyone from around the world to share the familiar and different cuisine offered at Pangaea.

• Address: Ocean BTW Delores & Lincoln, Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
• Phone: (831) 238-6478
• Noteworthy because: Excellent service and the warmest welcome from server Martin and owners Mira and Matthew. A full-true experience and not just a dinner out. Excellent fusion food—from East to West. Reasonable prices. Great wine choices.
• Food that stood out: Grilled Rib-Eye, Filet Mignon, Luli 2017 Pino Noir Santa Lucia Highlands wine, Crème Brûlée

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Cultura

Holy moly—this is the place to get mole!

The place? Cultura comida y bebida to be proper. Culture Food & Drink to be translated.

The mole? Smoked pork cheek in a mole sauce that combines traditional ingredients of chocolate and spices with emphasis on the spices and less on the chocolate. It’s served with saffron tortillas—hot, crispy, and yet just-right fluffy. This outstanding dish deserves its signature dish designation. Ron ordered it and I’m so glad he did.

I chose the summer chile relleno stuffed with summer corn, zucchini, red bell pepper, goat cheese, Monterey jack cheese,  herbs, and arugula set on top of heirloom tomato salsa. Besides having a pleasant, subtle flavor, the salsa is surprisingly light and airy, which makes it…unexpected. It’s a nice complement to the relleno.

That said, with all the “oh, mans!” echoing from Ron’s side the of the table, I swiped some of his saffron tortillas and dipped them into that mole sauce and well, it’s my choice for our next visit. The best mole I’ve enjoyed to date. And those saffron tortillas?

Seriously scrumptious. You can’t even make these in your dreams.

Cultura gets a lot of things right.

For starters—starters! Like tasty chips with two kinds of salsas and guacamole. These stand out from the typical salsas offered in so many restaurants. And they are good portions, too, which is warranted because these are part of the appetizer offerings and thus not served complimentary.

And if you’re feeling adventurous, you could try the chapulines with chili and lime. That’s…um…grasshoppers. I can’t report on that dish, but if you try them, drop a comment and let us know how they are. ♥

Cultura offers special drinks, too. I wanted a cocktail without the alcohol and wow(!) did they deliver!

Spirit free and special, this drink won me over.

Our server Alexander recommended the Desempate, which means ‘tie-breaker’. It’s a delicious concoction of coconut water, cherry, orgeat, lime, mint, and seltzer. Sooooooo very good—I had a couple. I’m happy to report that this ‘mocktail’ is priced at $9, more reasonable than most mocktails, and rightly so, given there’s no alcohol.

Nice way to kickoff, Cultura.

In any case, it’s nearly impossible to find a non-alcoholic cocktail but get this, the reason this one is called Desempate is that the owner was in a cocktail competition and he and another person tied for first place. To break the tie and find the winner, they were told to fix any drink they wanted. Cultura’s guy made the Desempate—taking a huge chance in making a non-alcoholic drink in a cocktail challenge—and he won! Thus, the Desempate was born. And now, it is seriously one of my favorite cocktails. Ron even loved it and he never likes cocktails.

Cheers and a big shout out to our server Alexander for guiding us to the Desempate and beyond. We very much appreciate his outstanding service during our dinner. His recommendations were spot-on and accurate, and the time he took to share the details and stories surrounding the fare made our dinner special.

Did I mention they have the best mole?

Seriously.

But, they are known also for their mezcal offerings and the restaurant features one of California’s largest curated collection of traditional mezcal. They even have an entire room devoted to enjoying mezcal.

Cultura offers not only delectable Oaxacan cuisine, but the ambiance has a contemporary and casual elegance. That coupled with a unique menu made for one heckuva 35th-anniversary celebration.

To complete our meal, Alexander served Mexican hot chocolate in clay cups sculpted with a face.

Authentic. Original. A perfect ending to a perfect meal.

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• Address: Dolores St. b/w 5th & 6th, Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
• Phone: (831) 250-7005
• Hours:  Dinner served nightly from 5:30 p.m. until 10 p.m. with a late-night menu available until midnight. Brunch: Sat. & Sun. from 10:30 a.m. until 3:30 p.m.
• Website
• Noteworthy because: Unique menu; elegant, but casual-enough for jeans and shorts; a contemporary and earthy vibe; great bar scene
• Good for: vegetarian-friendly; vegan options; romantic and luxurious while still down-to-earth.
• Food that stood out: Mole, saffron tortillas, Desempate drink

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Carmel Bay Company

Carmel Bay Company is one of my favorite stores.

I feel so inspired when I visit.

Their book selection is diverse and includes clever, first-time-you-see-it books; some classics re-inspired; as well as quirky books on photography, animals, cookbooks, poems, and all-around zany topics. So much fun! This year I chose a book on how to shoot photos for Instagram. Oh, yeah!

And they have contemporary items for the home and many items are made by craftsmen and thus limited in quantity.

They have a large kitchen and bath collection, most quirky and unusual, but practical and gift-worthy, too. They often carry a whimsical assortment of goods and the selection always changes.

I especially like their boutique upstairs where I almost always find a gorgeous wrap in their large selection, though I have never purchased any other clothing. But, they have a large selection and there are items I haven’t seen elsewhere.

If you’re an animal lover or like to give gifts to those who are, this is the place to find those special items that just happen to be hip, too.

But, my favorite aspect of the store is that it sells items that are down to earth and not frou-frou. You won’t find over-the-top, extravagant items here. Just clever, useful, or beautiful ones, and some of which are made by artisans. Eek!

Make sure to allow a good chunk of time at this store to take in all of the treasures.

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• Address: Lincoln & Ocean, Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
• Phone: (831) 624-3868
• Hours:  10 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily
• Website
• Noteworthy because: Unique items; lovely wraps in the boutique upstairs; a great selection of books you didn’t know you needed.
  

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Blackbird

Ah. Blackbird.

Every single time I visit Carmel, I buy an exquisite piece of jewelry here. With just two long tables in the small store, they carry the most beautiful jewelry. And the pieces I buy here are the ones I wear daily.

Life’s too short to wear boring jewelry.

I need my bling. ♥

This year, I bought these gorgeous gemstone earrings.

I love that I can wear a piece of jewelry and the memory of the day or the trip immediately comes to mind.

Blackbird carries unique items, and I have purchased several gifts here over the years, but the jewelry is what stands out to me.

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• Address: Ocean Avenue and San Carlos, inside the Doud Craft Studios Building
• Phone: (831) 624-8688
• Noteworthy because: of their small, but stunning jewelry selection.

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Ami

AMI is a gem in Carmel-by-the-Sea.

It’s an eclectic haven and I am always surprised at how much time I spend in this tiny store. But, like most tiny stores in Carmel-by-the-Sea, they curate the best items.

This trip, quotes on notecards caught my eye and, sure, I could find these quotes in a Google search, but I knew by the time I got home I’d forget. Now in my office, they continue to inspire me.  Words, put in a specific order, can do that. The Emily Dickinson one especially stood out to me. ♥

I also scored the most wonderful M. Rena pants. At first, I wanted to shy away from the one-size-fits-all styling, but let me tell you…they fit to a T. And the wide waistband is most flattering—and comfortable! This taupe wonder will be a staple item for my tunics and boots come fall. Super soft and uber comfortable. And that color…! ♥

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• Address: Dolores Street * Between 5th and 6th Avenues; 5 SE of Fifth on Dolores, Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
• Phone: (831) 620-1600
• Noteworthy because: Quality, unique items
• Website

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Ms. Fabulous

Ms. Fabulous is apt named.

Fabulous prices for fun, quality clothing. Fabulous selection. Fabulous service.

I don’t always find something here, but this year I scored a buttery-soft shirt with blousy sleeves—a bit of whimsy to an otherwise simple blouse. So romantic! And sooooo comfortable.  The picture isn’t reflective of its true beauty, color, nor comfort. It’s sure to be a favorite!

I plan to wear this with my long, quirky charcoal-gray Porto skirt since the blouse hangs so lovely. It doesn’t fit too snug and flatters. I just love the soft chartreuse-like color paired with gray. Don’t you?

Make sure to put this boutique on your list of shops to visit.

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• Address: NW corner, San Carlos & Seventh, Carmel-by-the Sea, California
• Phone: (831) 625-0920
• Noteworthy because: Boutique store with quality clothing at very affordable prices.
• Website (outdated, but will give you a sense of its style)

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Hog’s Breath Inn

Clint Eastwood is famously known here as the former mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea. As the story goes, he was upset at the fact that a street vendor wasn’t allowed to sell ice cream in the town. As a kid, he enjoyed getting ice creams there. He ran his campaign on the premise that he would bridge issues between officials and residents. And he won.

That was about 30 years ago. In the early 1980s, he owned Hog’s Breath Inn and his legacy still resides there even though he doesn’t own it anymore. But, the new owners bought the right to keep it all about Clint and people still flock to see “Clint Eastwood’s place”.

Wander in the bar and you’ll see old Western movie stills in black and white. All the rooms are filled with pictures of Clint both in character and not. Outside they play Clint’s movies continuously on at least two screens.

The service is good. The food is good. The ambiance is beautiful and unique but feels a bit worn. I suspect it serves best as a bar scene amid the enormous lighted tree and various fire pits while the television sets play Clint’s movies.  It’s a scene I’d come back to experience.

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• Address: San Carlos Street & 5th Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
• Phone: (831) 625-1044
• Noteworthy because: Clint Eastwood used to own it and it’s still all about him. A cozy, unique spot in Carmel-by-the-Sea.
• Website

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Mole Hole

Oh, the Mole Hole!

This store is always worthy of a visit. This year Ron and I oohed and aahed over these ducks made from weathered fence posts, most still adorning their rusted nails. Absolutely beautiful and unique.

If you look closely, you can see that part of the duck is raw, weathered wood and part of the duck is finished and refined. The juxtaposition is clever and beautiful.

While there, I met Diane who works there and we became instant best friends! Ron and I chatted with her among the beautiful store items for quite some time which made our trip special. Diane is passionate and personable and a true gem to this shop.

• Address: Corner of Mission & 7th, Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
• Phone: (831) 626-1640
• Noteworthy because: Wonderful staff and unique items
• Facebook

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La Bicyclette 

If there is ever a restaurant that reminds me of those in Paris, this is it!

The only thing missing is the French music (hint! hint!).

We made La Bicyclette our first stop in our three-day getaway. I couldn’t bear to miss it!

I savored the Fichi e Rucola pizza—mission figs, prosciutto, arugula, manchego & cambozola cheese, caramelized onion puree, walnut and balsamic. The sweet figs and salty prosciutto hit the spot. I paired my meal with a glass of crisp white wine. It was unusually hot the day we visited.

Ron loved the Salumi (cured meats) wood-fired pizza—Mortadella, soppressata, spicy ‘Nduja sausage, red onion, burrata, mozzarella, and San Marzano tomato sauce. Ron enjoyed his pizza with a frothy beer served on the niftiest silver tray. Hey. It all counts.

Complimentary cheese bites were oh-my-gosh-yummy!

One of the reasons we opted for lunch here is that they no longer serve breakfast—my favorite meal of La Bicyclette. I’m so bummed about this, but, life is change, right?

******Update 2020: I’m happy to report that La Bicyclette is back to serving breakfast after an overwhelming plea from patrons. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Breakfast at La Bicyclette is like being transported to France. 💕 Quite lovely! *****

A wonderful fruit tart to celebrate our 35th wedding anniversary.

• Address: Dolores Street & 7th Avenue, Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
• Phone: (831) 622-9899
• Noteworthy because: French ambiance; cappuccinos; wood-fired pizza
• Website

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Monterey Bay Aquarium

Our trip wouldn’t be complete without a sidestep to the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

This undersea wonderland has a special place in my heart.

Stroll through a tunnel with a school of sardines swimming above you in a perfect circle—in unison.

Wander the jellyfish exhibit and see the translucent fish light up with pulsating lights. Now we know where movie-makers get their inspiration for alien beings I bet!

You’ll most likely never see these in nature, but if you do, be very careful. Just a single touch to these fragile, magical creatures can break them apart.

On the day we visited the aquarium staff cleaned the windows.

This is something you don’t see every day. They were super friendly and waved at the audience. Too cool.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium has a wonderful restaurant. We found very healthy options that included perfectly cooked vegetables, lots of choices, and all the items were reasonably priced. And absolutely delicious. They have large windows that look out onto the bay.

Everything about the aquarium is a class act.

There is so much to see here. This post is just enough to spark your interest, but by no means does it convey the magic of the space nor its creatures. The aquarium is world renown and for good reason.

That said, we didn’t stay in Monterey after our visit to the aquarium, instead opting to go back to Carmel.  At just six miles away, it’s an easy 18-minute trek back where the best restaurants and lighted paths awaited us.

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• Address: 886 Cannery Row, Monterey, California
• Phone: (831) 648-4800
• Noteworthy because: It’s the best underwater place you’ll see. Touch pools with starfish and manta rays are very popular; special exhibits like the current jellyfish one. A spectacular and respectful place to see ocean creatures and learn about sea life.
• Website

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Out & About In Carmel-by-the-Sea

Pilgrim’s Way Books

There are bookstores and then there are bookstores.

Pilgrim’s is the latter where you can find the newest, as well as unique books. This year I picked up a memoir on the clearance rack for $5. But they carry an updated selection that’s well organized.

And what would Carmel be if it didn’t include a secret garden? 

Down Pilgrim’s way is the way to the secret garden. This is an extension of Pilgrim’s Way Books where you’ll find whimsical garden art—some practical, some not—as well as candles, cards, jewelry, and small gifts.

Along the way

Every space in Carmel is filled with beauty. You need not travel far, just wander the streets.

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Lobos Lodge

I recommend Lobos Lodge for your weekend getaway.

The location is very near the beach and still near the restaurants where you’ll most likely end your day.

Then it’s a beautiful stroll back to your room.

The rooms are very well kept and spotless. You won’t find it’s technology-savvy though so be sure to bring the proper gear to plug in your electronic gadgets into the few outlets in the room which won’t be by the bed. Also, if you like to iron your clothes like me, you’ll need to request a board and iron from the front desk. The board is unfortunately travel-size. Also, be sure to grab a hot water pot for your morning tea if you’re so inclined.

That said, the room is wonderful. Fresh apples are stocked in the rooms and you can bring back fresh cookies and coffee from the office.

I recommend a top-floor room for just a bit more money as the lower level rooms get little breeze; however, navigating the walkways on the lower level is a treat in and of itself. The grounds are lovingly well kept.

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• Address: Ocean Avenue & Monte Verde, Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
• Phone: 831-624-3874
• Noteworthy because: Quality, cleanliness, and location
• Website

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One last thing…

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