Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.
So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor.
Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover.
—Mark Twain
This post is part of my 33 Days in Europe series. Visit the hub page to follow along, see the full itinerary, and sign up for email updates.
Today’s the day we have lift-off.
All the planning—a zillion steps to get here—is about to pay off.
Why We Travel the Way We Do
Our tickets, hotels, and special attractions were all booked just three months ago. But we’ve left the adventure somewhat open-ended. We don’t know exactly what we’ll do each day.
Some core plans are secure, and that satisfies my practical side. But the bohemian girl in me shivers with delight—like a little kid on Christmas morning—not knowing exactly what awaits, but knowing it’ll be something exciting.
Ron and I learned long ago that we like a balance of planning and unfettered exploring.
True freedom is spontaneous leaping at something shiny.
I abhor clichés, but this one is useful: you don’t know what you don’t know, so how can you know what you want to see and do?
We plan the basics—airfare, hotels, and special attractions that require reservations—and then leave the rest to whatever moves or pulls us.
I want to see the bona fide treasures and cultural icons—Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, the canals of Amsterdam, the centuries-old streets of Lucerne. But I also want to stand in places that carry deeper weight—like the Anne Frank House, where you’re not just visiting, you’re breathing the air, standing in the space, and feeling something profound that no book or documentary can deliver.
I want to taste the food off the beaten path, learn what troubles a city, and find out what it holds sacred. I don’t shy from the grit. I want real. I don’t want manicured lawns or Americanized versions of Europe.
Give me the full, unvarnished place.
I’ve heard people complain about the food they found in tourist traps. Unlike some tourists who seek out the dishes they’re accustomed to, I want to eat like the locals. Like Rick Steves says: “You’re there to travel, so travel.” I feel the same way about the food.
You’re there to experience a place that’s different from your own—so don’t do the things or eat the things you usually do. You’re there for unique, so go for unique. Adopt a “when in Rome” attitude.
Be present. Be local. Just be.
Planning, Our Style
Ron’s not choosy. He can sleep anywhere—from a merchant ship’s metal bunk to a simple bedroll laid off the side of the road, flanked by native scrub and wild thistles. So anything I choose, he considers luxury.
In turn, I leave the navigation to Ron. His travel talents come from his time at sea as a merchant marine, as a boat owner and captain of every waterway and ocean, as a fishing expert, and as an elk hunter—able to stalk his dinner with a bow and arrow while navigating thick brush over literal mountains for days on end. I love him, and thus my gushing. But all to say: he’s qualified to figure out how to get us from place to place. These days, that usually means GPS and Google.
I realize this might sound intimidating, dear reader—as if you need survival skills to plan a trip like this. You don’t. Navigating civilization is far less strenuous, but tedious all the same. Ron simply gets the gist from Rick Steves’ books and website, which provide a pretty detailed list of everything you need: where to go, how to get there, and cost-saving advice like whether to get a Swiss Pass. (I share more about our planning style in my post: My Red Pillow Method: How I Planned a 33-Day Europe Trip.) Once you decide where to go, be sure to check out Rick’s books on the specific destination you’ve chosen. The details are essential—and be sure to get the most updated version.
Whether we’re on a mountain, in the outskirts of Paris, or weaving through the Alps, Ron finds the most efficient—and interesting—way to get us from place to place. And you can, too.
And We’re Off!
We live in the San Francisco Bay Area, so it’s easy: we catch a BART train to San Francisco International Airport. The train drops you right in the airport terminal—no shuttles necessary. It’s like being dropped into a sci-fi film: walkways glide you forward, no stops, just seamless motion from train to terminal.
Our Main Flight: Condor Airlines
When we saw the Condor Airlines plane from the window wall of the terminal, its candy-like green-striped paint job beamed cute, but not confident. But this flight turned out to be one of our favorites overall.
Like a book, I learned to never judge a plane by its paint job.
Of course, we had premium seats—something we’d never tried before—and that certainly enhanced the experience. I also loved that this plane had a two-seater row, so Ron and I were cozy without being shoulder-to-shoulder with strangers.
My pictures can’t convey how delicious the meals tasted. Simply the best.
We were very comfortable for the duration of our 10-hour, 45-minute flight to Frankfurt. I used my own foot sling, but the Condor premium seat also had an adjustable footrest. For my short stature, that’s a game changer.
The movie selection was incredible. The screen was large, bright, and adjustable. We used Bluetooth for our own Sony headphones.
I wore my new neck wrap. It looks like it might be hot and uncomfortable, but it isn’t. It has a plastic curved core inside that I place along my neck, then wrap the long attached fabric around and Velcro it closed. It let me sleep with my head slightly tilted. Surprisingly, it also served as a face mask—and I even pulled it up over my eyes as a night mask. I love its flexibility and comfort. My research paid off on this purchase.
Click any image to open the gallery and scroll through the photos full-size.
Layover and Swiss Air
We had a layover in Frankfurt, Germany for two and a half hours, then an hour-long flight on Swiss Air to Zurich, Switzerland.
Arrival in Switzerland
Arriving in Switzerland felt surreal—like descending into a diorama. Perfect green tree patches. Perfect houses, clustered together in perfect neighborhoods. All topped with cotton-ball clouds and backed by snowy mountains.
Below are a few snapshots from our train ride from Zurich to Lucerne, and then on to the hotel.
Click any image to open the gallery and scroll through the photos full-size.
Hotel Rebstock: Lucerne, Switzerland
Two hours on the beautiful train, a quick walk, and we arrived at the Hotel Rebstock.
Complimentary chocolates awaited us. Our beds were the European version of a double: two twin beds pushed side by side, each with its own sheets and comforter. This setup is famous for helping both people sleep better. And we did.
Check out the video below for a peek at our hotel room at Hotel Rebstock, the nearby Hofkirche church bells, and the view from right outside our window—just steps from Lake Lucerne.
Day 1 and 2: complete. Lucerne awaits in Day 3—the series continues. Stay tuned.
A Note About Airlines
1 – Airlines are reducing seat pitch—that’s the legroom between rows—and making seat backs more upright, sometimes cutting recline by half. Pitch and recline matter. These days, upgrading your seat might just get you the same space you used to have, or even less.
2 – You may have heard about Boeing’s troubles with the 737 MAX 8. Even though it was reinstated in November 2020 and allowed to fly again after extensive reviews and modifications, I choose not to fly on those planes. On most airline websites, you can select which airplane models you do—or do not—want when booking.
3 – A tip from a travel agent: When flying from the United States to Europe, avoid getting a connecting flight on the East Coast. Fly directly to Europe, then connect there. A flight delay in the U.S. is far more disruptive than one closer to your destination.
Our Travel Schedule to Lucerne, Switzerland
Condor Airlines: San Francisco, California → Frankfurt, Germany
10 hours, 45 minutes
Premium seats with an upgrade. Seats recline 12° and have a pitch of 35°. Airbus A330-900 NEO.
Allowed: 1 small bag (like a purse) + 1 cabin bag together not exceeding 22 lbs, and 1 checked bag at 70.55 lbs.
Layover in Frankfurt: 2.5 hours
Swiss International Airlines: Frankfurt → Zurich, Switzerland
1 hour
Airbus A220-300
Shuttle from the airport to the train available every 30 minutes.
Take a train for 1 hour and 10 minutes, transfer trains, then ride another hour to Lucerne.
Then a short walk—11 minutes—to the the hotel. Arrive at 7 p..m.
Gear I Recommend
See all my travel gear and essentials here: Things I Love & Recommend
Detailed Map of the Entire Journey
Below is a visual summary of our full 33-day route—hotels, attractions, Viking cruise path and stops, as well as transit modes and paths—hiking, train, plane, gondola.
Click to explore the interactive version and wander through the journey pin by pin.
2 comments
“On most airline websites, you can select which airplane models you do—or do not—want when booking.” I had no idea you could do that! Thanks for sharing! Though admittedly, I don’t know much about which plane I would or wouldn’t want, but I will heed your advice about the Boeing one.
I am not an expert on aircraft, but I was worried given all the hubbub about those particular Boeing planes. They have reportedly since remedied the problems, but I just felt better making another choice. And I am so glad I did! My research paid off as I ended up experiencing some of the best flights I ever had—with peace of mind. Happy travels! ✈️